"It is impossible to walk past those glass cabinets on the way to your seat and not spy something that you’d really like hurled on to a hot grill and brought to your table, which is already littered with small plates of tabbouleh, tarama and haydari."
"Where Gökyüzü surpasses itself, perhaps surprisingly, is in the desserts, which I ordered merely out of curiosity, then ate my words spoon by spoon in the form of one of the best kunefes I have ever encountered."
"Will I go back to Gökyüzü? Inevitably. It’s loud, just about always open and reliable for a last-minute large table. Even if it’s not quite changing the face of Turkish cooking, it is preserving the face of how it has looked, and it has made people in north London happy for decades. It’s not deconstructing the kebab and serving it with a playful yoghurt emulsion, but, let’s be honest, nobody needs that anyway."
Full review at https://www.theguardian.com/food/2023/sep/01/gokyuzu-london-n4-rest...
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